Petra versus Hegra: Discovering the land of the Nabataeans in Jordan and Saudi Arabia

Are the Nabataeans the greatest civilisation you were never taught about in school? This peaceful trading empire, based in the Arabian peninsula, reached peak influence between 200 BC and 100 AD, and was contemporaneous with the Romans and the Pharaohs. Certainly, judging by what they left behind, we should want to know more.

You will have heard of their greatest legacy: Jordan’s Rose Red City of Petra. It spans more than 261 sq km and is up there with the pyramids and Machu Picchu in terms of iconic imagery. Even if you’ve never been there, you’ll recognise it from the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, whose dramatic climax used the exterior of Al-Khazneh (The Treasury) as a scene setter. One article in 2023 even claimed that it was the most Googled film location ever.

Less well known is the Nabataeans’ second great city, Hegra, in the AlUla region of Saudi Arabia. This only reopened to visitors a few years ago, but its reputation is growing.

The Nabataeans left us almost no written records, but we know they were rich merchants who controlled the frankincense and myrrh trade. It is thought that they didn’t use enslaved people; they enjoyed wine, though, and the King was said to serve his guests with his own hands. Women held high positions in society, and queens could pass the crown to their daughters. And after visiting both of these ruined cities, my favourite fact is that they had a penchant for ostrich-feather cushions.

Debating visiting Petra, Hegra, or both? Here’s our guide to Petra versus Hegra, covering what to see and do as well as our top tips.

Read next: A guide to AlUla’s rock-carved stars

Some things can’t compete in real life with how they are shown in films and photos, but the walk into Petra will exceed all your expectations. From the cold gorges of the narrow Siq, the magnificent Al-Khazneh building emerges in a blaze of golden light.

You are walking in the footsteps of pilgrims going up to their holiest spot when you climb the hundreds of steps to the High Place of Sacrifice in Petra. There you will find a place for congregation – as well as lots of carved basins and channels, which give us clues as to how the people here worshipped. It also has a magnificent view over the site and to the desert beyond.

In Hegra, Qasr al-Farid is a giant carved rock standing alone in the middle of the sands. It looks like it has been dropped from outer space. It is the biggest tomb at the site, though it was never finished, and its name can be translated as ‘The Lonely Castle’.

In the small on-site museum, forensic archaeologists have used the latest reconstruction techniques to recreate a Nabataean citizen, known as Hinat. She is based on the remains of a woman who was buried in one of the tombs, and her eyes haunt you. But learning about her made this ancient civilisation come alive for me.

AlUla’s Hegra is a series of tombs spread across a vast desert landscape. Golf buggies will whizz you between the points of interest. The Diwan, the chamber of the king and priests, gives a glimpse of royal life. Take time to walk behind it and look at the rocks on your right. You can spot niches carved out for the Gods, and also the water channels that allowed people to thrive in this arid spot.

One of the things that makes this site so special is that there are inscriptions written above some of the tombs. They’re written in Nabataean, a form of early Aramaic, which gave birth to Arabic.

Beside the carved eagles, snakes and sphinxes are these words from a powerful woman: “This is the burial niche which Wushuh, daughter of Bagrat, made for herself within the rock tomb belonging to her and her daughters…..may Dushara, the god of our lord, and all the gods curse whoever removes this Wushuh from this burial niche for ever.”

In Jordan, Little Petra was essentially the caravan and camel park of the Nabataean merchants. They typically unloaded their goods here and then walked through the rock channels to do business, relax and be entertained by their local hosts. The only remaining decorated plasterwork is in a cave here. It shows naked ladies, musical cherubs and plump doves. They clearly had a taste for the good life.

From Little Petra, walk up the back route to the main site. Far fewer tourists come this way, and you’ll emerge at the high point of Ad-Deir (The Monastery), which has a handy café opposite for a tea break.

The Nabataeans will keep you busy, but do visit the Byzantine church too. There are some fabulous mosaics and lots of still-unrestored blocks of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns. You can explore for yourself and discover new pieces of history

For both sites, book a guide. There is so much to discover that you will need someone to help you through it. It will give you a chance to meet local Saudis and Jordanians too. My guide in Hegra was a woman, Widad, and I could ask her about modern Saudi life.

The Jordan walking trail goes through Petra and it is a magnificent hike – especially the stage from Dana to Petra. You can really feel what it would have been like to be a trader bringing in your goods.

Cautionary Tale

Be aware of the climate extremes. It can be both boiling hot and freezing cold. In Petra, especially, the narrow gorges can make for icy winds.

I wish I’d known

I was worried about being a woman travelling in Saudi alone, and I really needn’t have been. I found a friendly, hospitable people who were really proud of their country and culture. I felt safe and looked-after.

AlUla is also much more than just Hegra. At night, all the local families in the main town come out of their houses to stroll the main street and listen to the live music that is often playing. There are lots of stalls with free cardamom-scented Arabic coffee and dates.

Alice Morrison’s series, Arabian Adventures, about the Nabataeans in Petra and AlUla is available to watch now on BBC iPlayer.

Read next:

5 ancient ruin sites to visit in Jordan, beyond Petra

Meet the locals of AlUla

Kingdom of time: Full travel guide to Jordan