In the late 18th century, the Kasr al Bahr (Palace by the Sea) was built in Rabat as a coastal retreat for Sultan Moulay Slimane. Back then, its cool Atlantic breezes made summer in the city more palatable to the Moroccan royal. Today, the oceanfront setting and history all add to the appeal of a stay that is practically a study in conjuring the feel of an era, thanks to the clever restoration of fragments of the site’s past.
The Four Seasons brand has clearly worked hard to restore the half-dozen historical buildings scattering the site’s five luxuriantly landscaped hectares, even if it involved a bit of imagination. The complex was last used as a military hospital before being shuttered in 1999, though you wouldn’t know it. The restorations seamlessly meld an amalgam of structures of varying romantic heritage, nearly half of them built from scratch.
It’s an impressive feat. First impressions certainly conjure the storybook opulence of the Sultanate. The lobby occupies a luminous space of palms and fountains soundtracked by musicians in traditional garb plucking Moroccan lutes. Where new additions have been added, such as the four-storey ‘Kasbah’ where most of the 160 lavish rooms and 40 suites lie, it has been done in the spirit of the restoration.
Some of the rooms come with balconies overlooking the oasis-like gardens and fluorescent blue pools; others face westwards, gazing out towards the Atlantic swell just as the Sultan might have done. If you want to stay within the old palace, the self-contained Sultan’s Riad occupies a section of the original 18th-century building, having been restored with mosaics and inlaid wood spread across its two floors. The private courtyard, hammam and ocean-view infinity pool certainly give it a palatial feel.
If the accommodation is a fusion of old and new, it’s in keeping with the wider city of Rabat. Beyond the hotel gates, a stroll along the wave-pounded promenade reaches the kasbah, medina and Oudaïas gardens, bound by the sea and the capital’s 12th century defences. It’s a far cry from the modern ‘new town’, built by the French beyond the walls.
Anybody used to the buzz and barter of Fez or Marrakech will find a more laid-back experience amid the jumble of kilim shops and cones of spices in Rabat. The same goes for the Kasr al Bahr. All guests have access to an expansive spa and wellness centre, including an indoor pool, traditional Moroccan hammam and 24-hour gym. Restaurants encompass the chic Marie French brasserie and Mediterranean-themed Verdello, while Flamme raises Moroccan fare to gourmet heights with irresistibles like lobster tagine.
At the end of the day, head to the sultry Atlantique bar, where the mixologist adds two parts gin and apricot juice to one of wordplay while shaking up a ‘ta-gin’ cocktail. It’s a fitting finale to any evening, not to mention a handy metaphor for everything you see around you: history, modernity and a bit of imagination given a shake-up to create a hotel that has restored a lost landmark while building something unique for the present.
More information: Doubles from £415 per night; fourseasons.com/rabat
Read next:
Inside La Mamounia, the finest hotel in Marrakech
A guide to Morocco’s 9 UNESCO World Heritage Sites
The movies and TV shows you didn’t know were filmed in Morocco
