Unwrap a secret side to Madrid

Madrid has a wealth of excellent museums, and particularly stands out for its world-class art galleries, but beyond the doors of the Prado, the Reina Sofía and the Thyssen-Bornemisza, lie some of the city’s lesser-known historic house museums.

Begin at the Museo Lázaro Galdiano, an art museum located in a beautiful old mansion, the former residence of José Lázaro Galdiano, an editor who started up a literary magazine in the 19th century. It houses over 4,000 pieces from his private collection including works by the likes of Goya and El Greco.

Move on to the Museo Cerralbo, one of the most important, yet little-known city museums. Once the palace of the 17th Marquis of Cerralbo, today the museum gives visitors an insight into what life was like for a noble Madrid family during the 19th century. With a mix of classicist, neo-baroque and rococo styles, it features 50,000 pieces belonging to the family including sculptures, ceramics and glass.

Another fascinating house museum is the Museo Sorolla, dedicated to the artist Joaquín Sorolla and housed in his former home, displaying the largest collection of his works. It’s closed for refurbishment until 2026, but will be even better to visit when it reopens.

Even more secret history can be found in Madrid’s monasteries and chapels. The Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales is an ideal choice for a peaceful day out. The convent began life as the palace of King Charles I and Isabella of Portugal and was later converted into a religious building under the orders of their daughter Doña Juana de Asturias around 1557. Visit to admire its delicate 17th-century fresco paintings, tapestries by Rubens and other artworks by artists such as Brueghel and Luini.

Fans of the artist Francisco Goya won’t want to miss a visit to the chapel of San Antonio de la Florida, which has become like a museum dedicated to the celebrated Spanish painter. Towards the end of the 18th century, Goya painted the interior of and dome this impressive church (built between 1792 and 1798) with stunning frescoes. This is also where the body of the artist was moved to as his final resting place in 1919.

Of course, Madrid has a wide array of excellent restaurants and tapas bars well away from the tourist trail.

For something upmarket, Madrid has no shortage of Michelin-starred restaurants, with 26 included in the 2024 Michelin Guide. A further 20 have been awarded a Bib Gourmand, which recognises restaurants that serve fine food at reasonable prices, so there's plenty of choice if you're looking for stylish evening meal.

Located near the Parque del Retiro, Calle Ibiza has lots of tempting options to choose from. Try KultO with its international-inspired menu by chef José Fuentes, using local ingredients. Another good choice is Taberna Laredo with contemporary takes on classic Spanish dishes, and La Castela, a cosy tavern with both innovative and traditional tapas bites.

Located in the district of Chamberí Calle de Ponzano has in recent years become a hip gastronomic hotspot for trendy restaurants. Locals who dine here regularly have begun to call themselves ponzaners and have even invented a new verb – ponzaning, to describe going out to dine here. Some places to try here include DeAtún, which describes itself as a temple to tuna and El Invernadero, focusing primarily on plants, where meat is a side rather than the main event. Another choice is Charnela, a specialist mussel restaurant with tasty pairings.

There are several food markets to visit too, both for traditional produce and market dining. Forget the likes of the popular Mercado de San Miguel and Mercado de San Ildefonso and head for Mercado Chamberí Market or Mercado Vallehermoso instead. Chamberí Market has operated continuously since opening in 1943 and has over 50 fresh produce stalls. Mercado Vallehermoso was built in 1930 and comprises several artisan stalls selling fresh Spanish produce from olives and cheeses to cured meats and chocolates, as well as an area for tastings.

Madrid is Spain’s largest city and as such, there are plenty of neighbourhoods where you can get off the beaten track and discover areas where other tourists don’t usually venture.

Among two of the most interesting of these are the neighbourhood of Carabanchel and the area of La Castellana. Carabanchel isn’t on most visitor’s itineraries as it lies outside the Madrid M30 ring road, but those who do make the trip here are rewarded with a creative and artsy neighbourhood, dubbed District 11. Here there are around 40 studios, creative spaces and workshops dedicated to all types of disciplines from sculpture and photography to musicians and painters. Places to check out here include VETA Gallery, one of the city’s largest contemporary art galleries, which is housed in a huge former industrial warehouse.

Another alternative area to explore is the area around Paseo de la Castellana. It’s located just north of the centre and is a mosaic of embassies, office blocks and museums, running all the way up to Madrid’s temple of football – the Santiago Bernabéu. Many just head straight for the stadium, but its museums are worth sticking around for. Try the Museo de Escultura al Aire Libre, an open-air sculpture museum housing 17 sculptures from various innovative artists including Eduardo Chillida, Joan Miró and Pablo Serrano.

For those with kids, there’s also the Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales, the natural science museum first created by King Carlos in 1771. It displays animals from around the world as well as minerals, plants and ancient artefacts. If you’re a contemporary art fan, don’t forget to check out the facade of the Palacio de Congresos y Exposiciones, decorated with a mural by Catalan surrealist artist Joan Miró.