FLORIDA'S RAIL REVOLUTION

With a new section of track now open, Florida is embracing rail travel again, over 100 years after Henry Flagler’s epic railway was completed

Words Rhodri Andrews

Sunshine glittered on the water’s surface and swamp laurel oaks leaned over inquisitively as I kayaked through Rock Springs Run State Reserve. This was a 14,000-acre semi-tropical wilderness just half an hour from central Orlando - not that you’d ever know it. But 150 years ago, this is what most of Florida looked like. That is, until Henry Flagler came along.

One of the 19th century’s most successful businessmen, Henry Flagler made his fortune with the Standard Oil company, which grew into one of the world’s most powerful corporations. Flagler didn’t actually visit Florida until his late 40s, heading there in a bid to aid his first wife Mary’s failing health. He immediately recognised the tourism potential, going back seven years later to build his first hotel in 1885, the Ponce de Leon in St. Augustine – now Flagler College. More of his luxury resorts sprouted up along the coastline but he realised no one could reach them. That was when he struck upon the idea of using his oil wealth to construct the Florida East Coast Railway which, at its completion in 1912, stretched for 565km from Jacksonville to Key West.

In the mid-18^th century, great swathes of Florida were prime wilderness with a tiny population of under 270,000 people living in the state. But within 10 years of Flagler opening his first hotel in 1885, he’d transformed Florida into the sought-after sunny escape for wealthy Gilded Age travellers looking to flee the north’s harsh winters. Flagler’s revolution sparked development across the rest of the state, including other resort towns aimed at attracting seasonal sunseekers, like Winter Park on the eastern outskirts of Orlando. These days, people live here all year round but very little else has changed and, to me, its bricked streets, leafy parks and oak-studded pavements felt like an echo of the Old South. Life in Winter Park moves as slowly as the metronomic sway of the Spanish moss that drips from every tree.

Whether Henry Flagler visited Winter Park himself or not, I think he would have felt right at home. The city has embraced a farm-to-fork philosophy that Flagler pioneered with his Ponce de Leon hotel, although his hand was forced by the fact Florida was a remote destination at the time and food was too costly to import, so needed to be grown locally. Flagler would have adored one of Winter Park’s main landmarks, too, the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art, home to one of the largest collections of Louis Comfort Tiffany works in the world. Its vibrant exhibitions of delicate glasswork, lamps and paintings were like peering into a kaleidoscope at times and it seem Flagler felt the same as he commissioned Tiffany to design much of the Ponce de Leon’s interior. Even today, it has the largest collection of Tiffany stained glass windows anywhere in the world.

This drip feed of Flagler’s legacy had me wanting more. So, I headed to the coast and sun-bleached Palm Beach, a three-hour drive of Orlando. This is the Florida he truly fell in love with, building his grandest hotels here, including The Breakers in 1895 – the only one of his resorts that’s still open today. His railroad duly followed to West Palm Beach in 1896. Flagler was besotted by its tropical glamour so much he made Palm Beach his winter home, building his third wife Mary Lily Kenan a huge whitewashed mansion in 1902 as a birthday present. Then it was known as Whitehall; now it’s immaculately preserved as the Flagler Museum, remaining now just as it did over 100 years ago. As I wandered inside, it was obvious no expensive had been spared – walls were decadently lined with silk, wood, hand-painted plaster cast and aluminium leaf (the latter more expensive than gold at the time). “Most people settle for the quiet life when they retire, but then Henry Flagler isn’t most people,” said my guide David Carson, public affairs director at the museum. I didn’t need telling twice. This was a spellbinding display of the sky’s-the-limit ambition of America’s Gilded Age. The wealthy have been drawn to Palm Beach ever since and it’s become one of Florida’s most fashionable addresses.

Flagler may have laid the foundations for Palm Beach’s future success but sadly he wasn’t around long enough to see it. Along with his railroad, it was the First World War that proved to be the catalyst for Palm Beach’s growth, for wealthy American industrialists could no longer escape to the French Riviera – the go-to summer retreat at the time. That led to Paris Singer (heir to the Singer sewing machine fortune) and architect Addison Mizner transforming Palm Beach into their own American Riviera. “In 1919, Palm Beach was the only place in the USA to go for a holiday during the Gilded Age,” explained my guide, local historian Rick Rose. Palm Beach’s grand palazzos, Mediterranean Revival and Venetian-style architecture were a faithful recreation of the Mediterranean in this tropical slice of Florida.

Nowhere is glamorous sun-soaked Europe more keenly felt than along Worth Avenue, one of the country’s most exclusive shopping districts. While it was a launchpad for internationally renowned brands like Gucci and Armani in the US, it was a showcase of Mizner’s Mediterranean-inspired work, not least at the secretive Everglades Club at one end of Worth Avenue that is akin to an English gentlemen’s club, such is its exclusivity. Rick led me along the nine palm-shaded vias which peel off Worth Avenue, a warren of pedestrian passageways whose charming courtyards and elegant fountains would look more at home in Venice or sun-drenched Spain. “Mizner was creating Hollywood sets,” said Rick. “He used several techniques to intentionally make things look old, like uneven brickwork and rubbing stucco walls with buttermilk to age them.” It worked, as I was later stunned to discover that Seagull Cottage, constructed in 1886, is Palm Beach’s oldest building.

My time in Florida was coming to an end and after being fascinated by Flagler’s story all week, it was time to ride his legendary railroad myself. I caught the Brightline train in West Palm Beach to Miami and it felt surreal to finally be on Flagler’s original track after hearing so much about how it rewrote Florida’s future, especially in a country that has long struggled to embrace rail travel. Sleek, luxurious and smooth, the Brightline service proved to be both a comfortable and sustainable way to travel across the state – something Flagler would have been proud to see in the 21^st century. As I reached Miami, I thought of a photograph I’d spotted in the Flagler Museum, where locals were welcoming Henry Flagler in their thousands in Key West to thank him for changing their lives. Now, I hope Floridians will reach that same level of enthusiasm for rail travel again, especially now the Brightline Orlando extension has opened. That would be the ultimate tribute to Henry Flagler’s legacy.

Orlando, Palm Beach and Miami make for essential stops on a rail journey exploring Flagler's Florida.

Click on the map to explore each stop

START

ORLANDO

WHAT TO DO

WINTER PARK, ORLANDO

Get Up and Go Kayaking tour

There are few better ways to experience what Florida might have been like 150 years ago than by exploring the semi-tropical wilderness of Rock Springs Run State Reserve (about half an hour's drive north of Orlando near the city of Apopka) on a guided tour with Get Up and Go Kayaking. The transparent kayaks allow you to take full advantage of the gin-clear waters, so you can glimpse right under your feet as you paddle gently past the lush undergrowth. The waters here are scarcely believable, morphing from shades of mint green to cerulean blue as you glide along the shallow streams. Having your own guide will serve as an expert pair of eyes to spot the wildlife, which include gopher tortoises, egrets and the odd alligator. Get Up and Go Kayaking also offer guided kayaking tours along several of Florida’s other springs.

Scenic Boat Tour

Operating in Winter Park since 1938, the Scenic Boat Tour is an hour-long exploration of the city’s Chain of Lakes. Starting in Lake Osceola, guides paint a picture of the occupants of the dreamy lakeside retreats and architecture you motor past, including the remains of a hotel that was once the largest in Florida and the prestigious Rollins College. For me, the highlight of the tour is passing through the manmade canals which connect some of the lakes, which were originally dug out for transporting timber.

Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art

Housing the world’s largest collection of art by renowned artist Louis Comfort Tiffany, the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art is a visual feast of kaleidoscopic glasswork, paintings and other sculptures. Each room is elegantly laid out and the museum features some of Tiffany’s most acclaimed works, many of which were rescued from a devastating fire at his Long Island home Laurelton Hall in 1957, including a chapel interior designed for the World’s Columbian Exhibition in 1893 and intricately designed stained glass windows. Flagler was a huge fan and so will you be after a visit here.

Tastings at Ivanhoe Park Brewing Co.

An independent craft brewery in Orlando’s Ivanhoe Village, Ivanhoe Park's selection of craft beers are unmistakably Orlando in their origin. Each craft beer takes its cue from its surroundings, whether it’s the pineapple-flavoured brew in a nod to Ivanhoe Park’s birth as a pineapple farm or Joyland, a beer named after the amusement park that sat in the same spot between 1910 and 1915. These days, the team at Ivanhoe Park use their local links and love of craft beer as a force for good to unite the community at events, festivals and market days. Guided tours and tasting offer a greater glimpse of their story.

WHERE TO EAT

WINTER PARK, ORLANDO

Boca

Right on Park Avenue and only steps from leafy Central Park, few eateries are better placed in Winter Park than Boca. A favourite with locals for brunch, lunch and dinner, Boca echoes Winter Park’s local ethos, with a farm-to-table menu that whips up dishes with ingredients largely sourced from suppliers close by. Choices like the shrimp and grits echo the modern Old South feel of Winter Park, while meals like the lobster and shrimp bucatini and the pimento cheese BLT are contemporary takes on classic American cuisine.

The Pinery

Located on the shores of Lake Ivanhoe, The Pinery is an elegant restaurant whose name pays tribute to the pineapple grove that was once planted here. Classy yet with a warm hospitality that makes The Pinery feel so familiar, Florida’s past is deliciously celebrated in food form. You only need to glimpse the menu: Cedar Key clams, blue crab baked mac and gator tenderloin tacos are all Floridian favourites. I can personally recommend the bison and gnocchi.

Luke’s Kitchen and Bar

Fresh, modern and with a low-lit ambience ideal for fine dining, Luke’s Kitchen and Bar spreads its wings from coast to coast in its ambition to deliver classic American dishes from across the nation. The results feature tasty guest appearances from other cuisines, such as the snapper ceviche, as well as quintessential options like NY Strip, swordfish schnitzel and Florida fish fritters.

WHERE TO STAY

WINTER PARK, ORLANDO

The Alfond Inn

Stylish yet charmingly boutique, The Alfond Inn delivers a combination of upscale sophistication and personal intimacy that is often hard to get right. But the Alfond Inn strikes the balance perfectly and even though it’s close to Winter Park’s central Park Avenue thoroughfare, it offers a relaxing sanctuary that’s easy to curl up in, whether it's the sunshine-infused decor in your room or the sanctuary-like rooftop pool. Its in-house restaurant Hamilton’s Kitchen is a great place to start the day (it does a mean French toast and breakfast burrito), while the hotel even houses its own public art collection that has you craning your neck as you wander through the hotel's common areas. And, the fact it’s owned by the prestigious Rollins College means that just by staying there you’re contributing to the next generation – all of the Alfond Inn’s profits go to funding scholarships for the college's future students.

NEXT STOP

PALM BEACH

WHAT TO DO

PALM BEACH

Henry Morrison Flagler Museum

Originally built by Henry Flagler as a birthday present for his third wife Mary Lily Kenan in 1902, this whitewashed beaux-arts mansion was their lavish winter retreat, the pair falling in love with Palm Beach when Flagler's railroad reached here. Now it's the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum and a wander through the mansion (either under your own steam or on a guided tour) will not only show you that no expense was spared but also offer an accurate insight into Flagler's life here, with many of the rooms remaining remarkably unchanged since his day. Walls are lined with everything from silk to aluminium leaf (which, at the time, was more expensive than gold), while ceilings are ornately decorated with plaster cast. The grand mansion is constantly offering clues to Flagler's past, such as his private railcar (the private jets of their day) he used to travel along his railway, located in the pavilion, to the ballroom he used to welcome guests in.

Palm Beach Lake Trail

Running along a large chunk of Palm Beach's western shore from South Lake Drive to the island's northern tip, the 9km Lake Trail is an ideal (and free!) way to soak up the island from a more authentic, down-to-earth perspective. With the glittering waters of the Lake Worth Lagoon and the West Palm Beach skyline on one side and the backyards of wealthy mansions on the other, the Lake Trail is where locals love to escape to for a few hours. Do as they do and walk or cycle the trail: if you're doing the latter like I did, you can pick up a bicycle from the Palm Beach Bicycle Rental Shop or, if you're staying at the White Elephant, they have complimentary bicycles to hire for the day.

Guided walking tour of Worth Avenue

To really understand the rich history of Worth Avenue, Palm Beach's glamorous retail artery, you need to join a guided walking tour. Run by the Worth Avenue Association and led by charismatic local historian Rick Rose, the 75-minute tours really add depth to one of the most exclusive shopping streets in the US. He shares the history behind Addison Mizner's Mediterranean-inspired architecture, spills the tea on the secretive Everglades Club and explains the brains behind the beauty of the vias, the network of cobbled pathways which weave off from Worth Avenue. It's not just a tour that explains the birth of Worth Avenue, but also Palm Beach as a whole.

Palm Beach boat cruise

Soak up the size of Palm Beach in style on a cruise with Get Wet Watersports around its coastline, where you can spy the lavish mansions that line much of its fringes and Peanut Island, where President John F. Kennedy's secret nuclear bunker was once located. As you cruise, the team onboard will keep their eyes peeled for dolphins, have you guessing at which celebrities live in the waterside retreats and ensure you're comfortable and always with a drink in hand – a pinch of the Palm Beach lifestyle.

WHERE TO EAT

PALM BEACH

Sant Ambroeus

Bringing a splash of old-world Milan to Palm Beach, Sant Ambroeus enjoys a sun-soaked setting on Royal Ponciana Plaza and is an ideal spot for breakfast. Unsurprisingly, it's awash with Italian style, its colour scheme a pastel palette of pinks and creams and the elegant terrazzo floors reminiscent of the quaint cafés found all across Italy. But the food lives up to its dreamy decor, a fresh selection of pastries, omelettes, pancakes and more. But its leafy courtyard is a lovely place to relax at anytime of day, especially at golden hour.

Buccan

Regarded as one of the best restaurants in Palm Beach, Buccan is the brainchild of James Beard nominee chef Clay Conley with its fresh, inventive American cuisine. But as much as the smorgasbord of small plates here are delicious (and believe us they are, ranging from short rib empanadas to spicy pork tacos and everything in between), the atmosphere here is exactly what you want: trendy, welcoming, buzzing and full of laughter from everyone simply enjoying their food. What's even better is Buccan has two sister sandwich shops (one next to the restaurant and the other in West Palm Beach) that serve up made-to-order lunches that rewrite the sandwich rulebook.

Elisabetta’s Ristorante

Just over the bridge in West Palm Beach, waterfront Elisabetta's serves up a huge slice of Italy on Florida's east coast with its array of Italian classics. It's exactly how an Italian kitchen should be: relaxed, fun and authentic. The menu offers all of the home-cooked favourites you've come for with its wide range of pastas, generously topped pizzas and wood-fired specialities, all cooked in the restaurant's Neapolitan ovens. Elisabetta's is enjoyable at any time of day but, with its pitch overlooking Lake Worth Lagoon, we can think of few better places to be than on Elisabetta's alfresco terrace with a steaming plate of spaghetti watching a waterfront sunset.

WHERE TO STAY

PALM BEACH

White Elephant

Built in 1924, the White Elephant was one of the first hotels to be built on Palm Beach's premier artery Main Street. Its Spanish colonial design has remained, a tribute to Old World European design, and White Elephants alabaster-white facade has seen Palm Beach's rise as a resort destination first-hand. Its monochrome colour scheme drips with modern elegance, a trend that continues inside, only to be punctured by vibrant artwork scattered throughout the hotel. It feels very beach-chic (which is only a two-block way away) and effortlessly cool, while the super-comfy minimalist rooms are sanctuaries perfect for kicking off your flip-flops in. It's the service here that really stands out, however, and the staff actively encourage you to get out and about: we found it easy to hire bicycles and pedal the Lake Trail, while the White Elephant also arranged a delicious picnic lunch on the beach for us. A mention has to go to its in-house restaurant Lola 41, the hotel's buzzing core come sundown and a tasty spot for pan-Asian and Mediterranean cuisine. Make sure you try the key lime pie: you'll thank me later.

FINISH

MIAMI

WHAT TO DO

MIAMI

Wynwood Walls

The Miami neighbourhood of Wynwood overflows with creativity, every facade and building seemingly splashed with vibrant graffiti and artwork. This expressiveness has been condensed and magnified at the Wynwood Walls, an outdoor exhibition where some of the world's best graffiti and urban artists have come together to create a vivid eruption of colour. The artwork here covers every inch of the sprawling courtyard and surrounding buildings, artists using them as a giant canvas to whip up everything from pop-up art to intricately decorated murals. This kaleidoscopic explosion really sucks you in, so it's good there's a graffiti experience for you to have your own go with a spray can.

Vizcaya Museum & Gardens

If you're searching for something in Miami to remind of Henry Flagler's time, then the Vizcaya Museum & Gardens is it. One of the finest remaining examples of America's Gilded Age, Vizcaya is the grand vision of industrialist James Deering, who built a magnificent Mediterranean Revival mansion and then filled it with a sumptuous array of Renaissance furniture, tapestries and the extensive artwork of Deering's collection. The gardens are just as impressive as the building itself, the grounds modelled on Italian gardens from the 17th and 18th centuries and speckled with fountains and sculptures. For what was 'only' Deering's winter home, the ambition here captures everyone's attention. To put this into perspective, Deering hired 1,000 people to build his dream home, then 10% of Miami's entire population.

Bayfront Park

Miami's buzzing Downtown sweeps you off your feet with its energy so it can be nice to catch your breath. Bayfront Park is that tranquil spot, a short walk from Downtown and central Miami's green lung. Overlooking the cerulean waters of Biscayne Bay, Bayfront Park is studded with gently swaying palms, statues and two performance spaces in an amphitheatre and pavilion. This park has been used by locals to relax in since the late 19th century. Now's your turn, before dipping back into Downtown Miami's vibrancy.