Teahouses, temples and treasures of Taiwan

This year marks the 400th anniversary of the founding of Tainan, Taiwan’s former capital on the south-western coast. In 1624, the Dutch East India Company established their presence on Taiwan (then Dutch Formosa) with a base in Anping, a leafy suburb of the present-day city. Tainan remained the capital for more than 200 years while the Dutch, the Spanish, a Chinese-Japanese pirate king called Koxinga and the Chinese battled it out for control of the island.

The Qing emperor emerged victorious in 1683, and in the late 19th century moved the capital to its present-day location in Taipei in an administrative shake-up; it was also prompted by the fact that the north had replaced the south in importance for trade.

When Japan ruled Taiwan from 1895 to 1945, it left enduring traces in the beautiful heritage architecture that was constructed as well as cultural norms such as high public trust and a low crime rate.
Tainan 400 is a city government-led year-long party, with food fairs, cultural festivals and a special commemorative craft beer by local brewer Taiwind Beer. This focus on Taiwan’s Dutch origins is a reflection of how confident the country has become in embracing all of the cultures that have played a role in shaping Taiwanese identity.

Fundamental to this is Taiwan’s evolution into a thriving democracy and open society, following decades of autocratic rule under the Kuomintang (KMT), the losing side in the Chinese Civil War, who fled here in 1949. The first presidential elections were only held in 1996.

While Taipei is the top tourist destination, both cities deserve attention – their historical status has ensured that the streets and alleyways are rich with sites of religious and cultural importance. A convenient bullet train link also means they are easy to include in a Taiwan itinerary, even one as short as a week.

Taipei (which means Taiwan North in Mandarin Chinese) is a metropolis of 2.5 million people in a basin ringed by forest-clad mountains. The past few decades have seen its skyline grow into one befitting a capital in the 21st century, with experimental skyscrapers, shopping complexes and a multicultural dining scene. A world-class public transport system and riverside cycle network exemplify the civic-minded urban planning that has nurtured a number of public green and cultural spaces such as parks and galleries. It means that it’s an incredibly liveable city, if you ignore the blight of rising housing costs.

Tainan (Taiwan South) is sleepier, smaller and slower. There are few high rises and no metro. Locals get around by Taiwan’s ubiquitous scooters. Famous for its food culture and temple life, Tainan has always had a strong appeal with regional tourists, but in recent years it has advanced its international allure by nurturing traditional and retro brands through the opening of cafés, bars, restaurants, B&Bs and craft shops in renovated heritage buildings.