Squint at a map of France and you’ll see that the extreme west of Brittany almost resembles a mouth yelling into the ocean. This is Finistère: a place of rugged landscapes and unforgiving coastlines, home to islands, maritime cities and fishing villages still fuelled by Breton culture.
Life here revolves around the water, and nowhere more so than in Brest, Finistère’s largest city. As a major port, much of it was destroyed during the Second World War, leading to heavy rebuilding; nevertheless, its maritime history can still be glimpsed in the quieter corners. More pleasing to the eye is provincial capital Quimper, a labyrinth of half-timbered buildings and criss-crossing bridges spanning the Odet and Steïr rivers. Both cities make great bases for exploring.
Away from the towns, Finistère’s remote and wild spaces are worth savouring. The islands of the Molène archipelago in particular afford the chance to spy bottlenose dolphins and a wealth of seabirds. Here you can also experience life on the westernmost fringes of France, with little but the ocean between you and North America. It soon becomes apparent just why the name Finistère derives from the Latin phrase ‘end of the earth’.
Back on the mainland, the 2,000km-long GR34 trail skirts its way around the coast of Brittany. It also crosses the 125,000-hectare Armorique Regional Natural Park, a wilderness area that stretches inland from the Crozon Peninsula to the hills of the Monts d’Arrée and the moors beyond, offering fine hiking and biking.
You’ll also quickly discover that Breton culture is alive and well. The majority of Breton speakers live in Finistère, where events celebrating their traditions span the calendar – the largest being Festival de Cornouaille in Quimper. The same goes for Breton cuisine, whose specialities, including sweet and savoury crêpes and kouign-amann pastries, still provide the fuel to burn off when exploring the ‘end of the earth’.
How to spend five days in Finistère
Day 1: Ushant
There are several visitable islands off the coast of Finistère, but Ushant (Ouessant in French) is the largest and arguably the most interesting. Travel from Brest by ferry (2.5 hours; pennarbed.fr) and rent bikes at the port. From there you can explore the island’s coves and beaches (keeping an eye out for its five lighthouses), then drop by main town, Lampaul, and visit the illuminating Museum of Lighthouses and Beacons.
Day 2: Brest and Landerneau
Discover the maritime city of Brest and its magnificent natural harbour. Take the cable car to the Ateliers des Capucins centre, then stroll the Rue Saint-Malo for a rare glimpse of 17th-century Brest. Have lunch in the converted industrial Ateliers building for views across the city. Visit Landerneau in the afternoon to see the Rohan Bridge, one of the last inhabited bridges in Europe.
Day 3: Crozon/Armorique
The Crozon Peninsula is part of the Armorique Regional Natural Park and is home to some of the region’s most attractive landscapes and beaches. The coast of the peninsula follows the footpath of the much longer GR34 trail, and the southern point at Cap de la Chévre looks out over the wild bay of Douarnenez.
Day 4: Quimper
Wander the streets of Old Quimper and marvel at the Gothic-style Saint-Corentin Cathedral and the town’s picturesque half-timbered buildings. Have lunch at one of the many crêperies and stroll alongside the river Odet to Locmaria, one of the oldest parts of the city, where you can learn about faïence (tin-glazed) pottery, Quimper’s speciality, and visit a museum dedicated to it.
Day 5: Locronan and Douarnenez
Spend a morning in Locronan, 15km north of Quimper. This is one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, an association highlighting small, beautiful rural villages. In the afternoon, head to the working fishing town of Douarnenez for an authentic kouign-amann pastry and follow the coast path past the Roman ruins to the shores at Le Ris.
Outdoors
Set sail
Given Finistère is a maritime region, begin by discovering some of its most impressive seascapes with an excursion to the Molène archipelago and the Iroise Natural Marine Park. Learn about the history of the islands and lighthouses with a stopover on Molène, and keep your eyes peeled for seals and dolphins. Boats leave from Le Conquet. Book with archipel-excursions.com
Armorique Regional Natural Park
With a terrain that ranges from rugged coastline to mountains and forest, must-visit Armorique offers some of the best hiking and mountain biking in the region. Climb the extinct volcano of Ménez-Hom for a view over Finistère, explore the legend-infused Huelgoat Forest and set off on the trail-studded moors of the Monts d’Arrée. pnr-armorique.fr
Make the most of the coast
With over 1,250km of coastline, there are plenty of excellent shores to explore. Penmarc’h, south-west of Quimper, has over 5km of beaches, but the 2km-long Pors Carn beach is a great spot with a useful surf school where you can take lessons or rent a board. Other popular surfing locations around the area include La Torche, La Mauvaise Grève and Saint-Tugen. Book with 29hood.com
Indoors
Saint-Corentin Cathedral
Established in the 13th century, the enormous cathedral that dwells in the heart of Quimper’s old town is the finest example of Breton Gothic architecture in Brittany. The original stained-glass windows might have been destroyed during the French Revolution, but these were later replaced in a period of restoration that included the construction of the building’s dual spires – all financed by the people of Quimper.
Phare Saint-Mathieu
The coast of Brittany has the highest concentration of lighthouses in the world, with many found in Finistère. Close to Le Conquet and built among the ruins of an old abbey, the lighthouse of Saint Mathieu was built to guide sailors through the Brest narrows. Climb its 163 steps for views over the Pointe du Raz to the island of Ouessant.
Les Ateliers des Capucins
With past uses including a convent and a shipbuilding centre, Les Ateliers des Capucins is a vast space that now includes a food court, brewery, climbing wall, concept stores and workshops. On the ground floor, machines from the site’s shipbuilding past are displayed. You can even travel to the building across the Penfeld River in France’s first urban cable car.
Top things to do
1. Learn about Breton culture during celebrations such as Quimper’s Festival de Cornouaille in July or Concarneau’s Festival des Filets Bleus in August. Visit the Breton Museum in Quimper to explore the region’s history.
2. Try local and regional specialities. Finistère is known for its strawberries – especially those grown around Plougastel-Daoulas – as well as salted butter, cider, and sweet and savoury crêpes. No visit is complete without trying kouign-amann (butter cake), which originated in Douarnenez.
3. Explore the Nantes to Brest canal, which stretches over 360km and passes through many picturesque towns. Rent a paddleboard, boat, kayak or bike at Châteauneuf-du-Faou or Pont-Coblant.
4. Stock up on seafood at Douarnenez. This port town’s sardine-fishing history dates back 2,000 years, and it’s a good base from which to visit the canning factory at nearby Kerbriant, which produces (and sells) tinned sardines the traditional way.
Need to know
Where to stay
La Duchesse Anne, Ouessant
To extend your trip to Ouessant, this well-situated hotel is a ten-minute walk from the beach and has views out to sea.
Le Magasin à Sel, Crozon
This 17th-century building in Crozon was originally built as a salt house. These days a kitchen and barbecue are available for those looking to self-cater, but there’s lots of great restaurants in the town.
Hotel Ty Mad, Douarnenez
This stylish hotel situated in Douarnenez comes with a tranquil garden, spa and excellent restaurant.
Logis Hôtel Abalys, Brest
Conveniently located by Brest station, the en-suite rooms here tend to err on the small side but are very reasonably priced.
When to go
Weather in Finistère is similar to that in the UK. Summer months are warm and sunny – but bring a waterproof coat.
Getting there & around
Brittany Ferries operates between Plymouth and Roscoff (5.5 hours). You can also take the Eurostar from London to Paris, from where direct trains to Quimper or Brest take from 3.5 hours. Self-drive is the most practical option for getting around Finistère; car hire is available at Quimper airport or in the city centres of Brest and Quimper.
Currency
Euro (€), currently around €1.17 to the UK£.
Further information
Learn more at brittanytourism.com or visit Wanderlust’s destination guide to France
