Uncover the historic heartlands of Cyprus

There are mountains, and then there are the Troodos. Formed 8,000m below sea level 90 million years ago, their unique geological formations led to their designation as a UNESCO Geopark. Here, along with the pines and cedars, grows a botanical wonderland of 1,750 species of plants, including the rare Cyprus tulip and 125 other endemics. The mountains are home to big horned Cyprus Mouflons, along with endemic species of mice, fresh water crabs, rare bats and butterflies. Wherever you wander, keep an eye peeled for a rare Bonelli’s Eagle or Griffon Vulture soaring high overhead.

The Troodos Mountains are also home to little asymmetrical stone-built churches with steep pitched timber roofs. Many of them are set in charming rural settings outside of mountain villages and are unique in the Greek Orthodox world. Their interiors, covered in richly coloured Byzantine murals, painted between the 11th and the 16th century are a portal to a long-ago world. UNESCO has listed the ten best painted churches as World Heritage Sites.

In the Troodos, you should also bring your binoculars to spot the endemic Cyprus wheatear, Cyprus warbler, short-toed tree-creeper and Cypriot scops owl. Set on the flyway between Africa, the Middle East and Northern Europe, Cyprus is also a stopover for millions of birds, especially in the spring, an annual migration that starts with the Great Spotted Cuckoo followed by nightingales, larks, wagtails and warblers. The autumn migration is good for observing raptors. Key birding sites include Larnaca’s salt lakes and Akamas National Park.

Cyprus may well be the oldest wine maker in the Mediterranean; not only was it exporting wine in Homeric times, but recently archaeologists discovered wine jars from 3,500 BC that still had grape pips inside. Most Cypriot wines are still made from the island’s ancient native varietals (Mavro for reds, Xynisteri for whites) although winemakers occasionally combine them with Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Carignan Noir, Chardonnay or Semillon.

Cyprus’s best-known wine is luscious amber Commandaria, made from sun-dried Mavro and Xynisteri raisins. Praised by the poet Hesiod in the 7th century BC, Commandaria took its name in 1191 after Richard the Lionheart sold Cyprus to the Knights Templar, who had a command centre at Kolossi Castle. When Richard drank the wine that same year at his wedding to Berengaria of Navarre, Richard proclaimed it ‘the wine of kings and king of wines’. Now a prized a dessert tipple, Commandaria is nothing less than the world’s oldest named wine, produced in 14 villages north of Limassol.

There are seven signposted wine roads waiting to take you to pretty wine villages in the southern foothills of the Troodos. In spring, wildflowers add colourful accents to the vines; in autumn, the scent of fermentation fills the air. The especially lovely Krasochoria Lemesou route takes in 20 villages and 16 wineries; Sunvil recommends a stop at the friendly Agryrides family winery and museum in Vasa, and elsewhere visits to Omodos and Koilani, villages known for their innovative wineries.

Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman monuments adorn Nicosia, but equally compelling is the newest of the new: Zaha Hadid’s swooping, visionary remake of Eleftheria Square, completed in 2021. Go in the evening, when locals of all ages come for a stroll, the fountains are illuminated and music fills the surrounding bars.

Since the fall of Berlin, Nicosia stands alone as the world’s only divided capital. Seek out the Green Line (UN Buffer Zone); the 1974-era barrier of barrels, chain line fencing, cement walls decorated with graffiti and potted plants suggest it could be ready to come down any minute. You’ll see older walls too, built by Venice in the 16th century.

Visit Nicosia’s most beautiful church, the icon-filled Franco-Byzantine Archangelos Michaelis. Go for a hot soak and massage at the beautifully restored Ottoman bathhouse, the Hamam Omerye, built in 1571. Wander in the early 20th-century Chrysaliniotissa quarter and buy a handmade souvenir in its new crafts centre. Hire a bike to cycle around the lake in Athalassa National Forest Park; in May, poppies paint its fields lipstick red.

Don’t neglect Nicosia’s excellent museums, notably the Cyprus Museum, the country’s main archaeological collection, and the A.G. Leventis Gallery, with paintings by major French Impressionists, Greek and Cypriot artists, donated by one of the country’s great benefactors. Then there’s the joys of sitting outside in spring and autumn, enjoying some of the country’s best restaurants—the kind that cook for locals, not tourists.

Located at the crossroads between Europe, Egypt and the Middle East, Cyprus was an early bloomer. On the sea cliffs just east of Limassol are the ruins of Amathus, a royal city from 1100 BC. However, that seems like yesterday compared to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Choirokoitia located off the Limassol-Larnaca highway and dated to the 7th millennium BC, making it one of the most important survivals in the Eastern Mediterranean. Combine it with the nearby Neolithic/Bronze Age site at Kalavasos Tenta, whose intriguing remains are now sheltered under a massive tent.

Take the time to head west of Limassol to visit Kourion, an ancient city in a picturesque setting overlooking the sea. Although founded in the 13th century BC, most of the ruins are Roman era, including the theatre and early Christian Basilica.

Heading west along the coast towards Paphos, you’ll see the dramatic sea rock marking the spot where the seafoam born goddess of love Aphrodite arrived in Cyprus. Her temple at Kouklia (Palaeopaphos), was the centre of her fertility cult in the Mediterranean for over a thousand years. Forget Botticelli’s Venus on the half shell: the museum holds the mysterious black basalt stone that was worshipped, probably since Neolithic times. It’s a World Heritage site, as is Kato Paphos, the Greek/Roman city below modern Paphos.

Cypriots love to let their hair down, and some of their liveliest festivals take place in spring and autumn. The Limassol Carnival, starting on 20 February in 2025, is rollicking good fun with music, crazy costumes and balls culminating on 2 March with a massive parade. The biggest holiday of the year, Greek Easter, is celebrated with fireworks, feasting and dancing which follows on 20 April.

In May, there’s the Anthestiria Flower Festival, said to be inspired by the ancient springtime festival of Dionysus, god of wine and fertility. There are flower markets and parades of flower floats, especially in Yermasoya (near Limassol), Larnaca and Kato Paphos.

A unique Cypriot festival, the Kataklysmos (Festival of the Flood) takes place in Larnaca and other seaside towns exactly 50 days after Orthodox Easter (9 June in 2025). In memory of Noah’s flood, the day starts with a religious parade of worshippers in traditional costumes, bearing icons and relics, as everyone migrates towards the seafront. A joyous celebration follows, with traditional music, singing, dancing, and water games for all ages.

For nine days, running from late September to the first week of October, the Limassol Wine Festival takes over the municipal gardens. Now in its 64th year, it’s a chance to taste the full range of Cypriot wines from dry whites to sweet reds, graze in the food stalls, dance to live music of all genres and try grape stomping—there’s nothing quite like the feeling of juice squishing between your toes.

Enjoy a walking holiday

Sunvil’s self-guided Exploring the Akamas National Park holiday encompasses Mediterranean nature so pristine that David Attenborough came to film here. It includes return flights to Paphos, transfers and accommodation for eight nights in Neo Chorio and Latchi.

Immerse in nature

Sunvil’s Walking and Nature Lovers holiday will get you into the heart of Cyprus’ most beautiful nature. Suggested walks for adults, of fair to good fitness levels, take in hikes in Akamas National Park and in the Troodos Mountains. The holiday includes return flights to Paphos or Larnaca, car hire, guides, 4 nights B&B in Latchi and 3 nights B&B in Kalopanyiotis.

Unwind in Nicosia, Paphos and at the sea

This 14-night holiday starts with 3 nights B&B in Nicosia and 4 nights B&B in Paphos, allowing ample time to explore the sights and soak up the very different atmosphere of the two cities. Afterwards, there’s a relaxing week in a villa with a pool near the sea in Polis, surrounded by gardens, vineyards and orchards. Return flights to Larnaca and car hire are included.